Starred review from October 18, 2021
In this touching and transportive debut, TikTok creator Molinaro reinterprets the Korean classics she grew up with as vegan fare. She swaps out the beef used in bulgogi for soy curls (cooked and dehydrated soy beans) to recreate its meaty texture, and makes a vegan “fishy sauce” with a variety of mushrooms and dashima (dried kelp) for umami flavor. Throughout, Molinaro’s dishes are enriched with wistful anecdotes about cooking with her omma (grandmother) and stories from her parents’ youths in Korea: The chocolate sweet potato cake, for instance, is inspired by the two foods that saved her mother’s life when she fled from North Korea to South Korea as a little girl. Molinaro also adapts Western dishes for the vegan Korean kitchen, such as Angry Penne Pasta, a riff on pasta arrabbiata prepared with gochugaru and gochujang. Each recipe is categorized by difficulty level, ranging from “easy” dishes like dooboo jorim (braised tofu) to “practice makes perfect” choices such as kkanpoongi (spicy crunchy garlic “wings” made with tofu and jackfruit). Though some ingredients may prove difficult to source (such as jjajang, a fermented black soybean paste), Molinaro’s assured guidance simplifies everything else. This tasty tribute is full of heart and flavor. Agent: Charlie Brotherstone, Brotherstone Creative Management.
Starred review from February 1, 2022
This standout memoir/cookbook by vegan blogger Molinaro presents a rich array of vegan Korean dishes, including traditional recipes, modern interpretations, and Korean twists on a range of global cuisines. In the "Basics" chapter, Molinaro shares her secret weapons for flavor (a range of go-to sauces and dressings, including a vegan "fish" sauce) that she calls on in the book's other recipes (breads, soups, noodles, kimchi, vegetables, main dishes, street foods), all with straightforward instructions that are easy to follow. Molinaro's versions of widespread Korean dishes like bulgogi and stuffed pancakes will thrill vegan foodies; readers with a sweet tooth will appreciate her riffs on American desserts (chocolate-persimmon cupcakes; pecan pie flavored with sweet red bean paste). Many recipes have been handed down to Molinaro from family members, and she highlights the histories of these heritage dishes in poignant memoiristic accounts. VERDICT The deep connection between food and family shines through in Molinaro's enticing collection, which is highly recommended for anyone wanting to learn more about Korean cuisine and culture.--Kelsy Peterson
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